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Once you re at the airport or the border, you ll have to pay a fine of B per day before you can leave Thailand. More importantly, however, if you re in the country with an expired visa and you get involved with police or immigration officials for any reason, however trivial, they are obliged to take you to court, possibly imprison you, and deport you. Border runs, extensions and re-entry permits Setting aside the caveats about proof of funds and onward tickets above, it s generally possible to get a new fifteen-day tourist visa exemption by hopping across.

Tourist visa exemptions can be extended within Thailand for up to a further ten days, or sixty-day tourist visas for a further thirty days, at the discretion of immigration officials; extensions cost B and are issued over the counter at immigration offices kaan khao muang; T for 24hr information in English, Wwww.

You ll need two photos as well, plus two photocopies of the main pages of your passport including your Thai arrival card, arrival stamp and visa. Immigration offices also issue re-entry permits B single re-entry, B multiple if you want to leave the country and come back again while maintaining the validity of your existing visa. The immigration office in Bangkok is on the northern outskirts of the city, southwest of Don Muang airport see map, p.

Many Khao San tour agents offer to get your visa extension for you, but beware: some are reportedly faking the stamps, which could get you into serious trouble. Thai embassies and consulates abroad For a full listing of Thai diplomatic missions abroad, consult the Thai Ministry of Foreign Affairs website at Wwww. Laos Vientiane Wwww. Visa applications by post are not accepted here, but can be sent to various honorary consulates, including those in Hull Wwww. However, there s been a fair bit of politically motivated toing and froing of domestic airlines between the two airports over the past few years: it may well be that the woefully underused Don Muang will again close to scheduled flights altogether, or it might, conceivably, be allowed to handle a greater range of low-cost flights.

If you do wind up at Don Muang, the best way to get into the city centre is by licensed, metered taxi from the desk outside Arrivals about B. Suvarnabhumi Airport Arrival Unless you arrive in Bangkok by train, be prepared for a long trip into the city centre. Suvarnabhumi Airport is 25km out and the three long-distance bus stations are not much closer in, though at least the Northern Terminal is fairly near the Skytrain and subway, while the Eastern Terminal is close to a Skytrain station.

In the arrivals hall on Floor 2, there s a tourist police booth; two TAT information desks, which are helpful but marooned at the hall s far east and west corners daily 8am 10pm; T ; and Thai Hotels Association accommodation desks, with prices generally cheaper than rack rates. Car-rental companies, including Avis and Budget see p. There are pricey, hour left-luggage depots, charging B per item per day, both in arrivals and in the departures hall on Floor 4, which is also home to a post office.

On Floor 3, there s a hour clinic run by Samitivej Hospital. Airport transport On the other side of the huge airport complex from the terminal building stands the Public Transportation Center, accessible via a free, ten-minute ride on an Express shuttle bus from Gate 5 outside arrivals or Gate 10 outside departures be sure not to confuse these with the much slower Ordinary shuttle buses, which ferry airport staff around the complex.

However, because of the inconvenience involved, taxis and many buses now pick up and drop off at the terminal building, as detailed below. The high-speed Suvarnabhumi Airport rail link SARL , that s currently reported to be opening in early , will be the quickest means of getting downtown from the airport terminal. Nonstop Airport Express trains to the City Air Terminal at Makkasan Station which connects with the subway system at Phetchaburi station are planned to take about fifteen minutes and cost B, while stopping Airport City Line services to Phaya Thai an interchange with the Skytrain system , including stops at Makkasan and Thanon Rajprarop, should take around thirty minutes and cost B The TAT offices in the arrivals hall have full details of all airport transport.

The most economical way of getting into the city is by public air-con bus B22 34 or minibus B40 70 , with the following routes, mostly hour, likely to be useful to visitors:. The dedicated, air-conditioned airport bus daily 5am midnight; at least every 30min; B is fine for lone travellers, but at most times of the day, the convenience of a taxi is going to be cheaper for a group of two or more, or at least not much more expensive.

Taxis to the centre are comfortable, air-conditioned and reasonably priced, although the driving can be hairy. Walk past the pricey taxis and limousines on offer within the baggage hall and arrivals hall and ignore any tout who may offer a cheap ride in an unlicensed and unmetered vehicle, as newly arrived travellers are seen as easy prey for robbery, and the cabs are untraceable.

Licensed and metered public taxis are operated from clearly signposted, official counters, outside the arrivals hall s Gates 3 and Even including the B50 airport pick-up fee and around B70 tolls for the overhead expressways, a journey to Thanon Silom downtown, for example, should set you back around B, depending on the traffic.

Day rooms B from 8am 6pm, or B for 4hr are also available at the airport hotel, the four-star Novotel Suvarnabhumi T , Wwww. Offering Thai, Japanese, Chinese and international restaurants, a swimming pool and fitness centre, the Novotel is a ten-minute walk from the terminal building or catch the shuttle bus from outside Gate 4, Floor 2. By train Travelling to Bangkok by train from Malaysia and most parts of Thailand, you arrive at Hualamphong Station, which is centrally located, at the southern end of the subway line.

See box on p. Station facilities include an exchange booth, several ATMs, an internet centre and a makeshift left-luggage office, actually just bags piled up in a corner daily 4am 11pm; B30 80 per day, depending on size. A more economical, and possibly more secure place to store baggage is the TT2 Guest House see p.

For train-related questions, contact the hour Information counter close by the departures board. The station area is also fertile ground for dishonest tuk-tuk drivers, so you ll need to be extra suspicious to avoid them take a metered taxi or public transport instead. By bus Buses come to a halt at a number of far-flung spots.

The quickest way to get into the city centre from Mo Chit is to hop onto the Skytrain at Mo Chit Station, or the subway at the adjacent Chatuchak Park Station, fifteen minutes walk from the bus terminal on Thanon Phaholyothin, and then change onto a city bus if necessary. Otherwise, it s a long bus or taxi ride into town: city buses from the Northern Bus Terminal include ordinary to Siam Square, Hualamphong Station, Banglamphu and the Southern Bus Terminal; and ordinary and air-conditioned 3, and air-conditioned and to Banglamphu; for details of these routes see p.

This bus station is right beside the Ekamai Skytrain stop and is also served by lots of city buses, including air-conditioned to Banglamphu and the Southern Bus Terminal see box on p. There s a leftluggage booth at the bus terminal daily 6am 6pm; B30 per day. Most drivers on these services make a stop to drop passengers towards the eastern end of Thanon Borom Ratchonni, much nearer Phra Pinklao Bridge and the river, before doing a time-consuming U-turn for the terminus; if you re heading across the river to Banglamphu or downtown Bangkok you should get off here, along with the majority of the other passengers.

This is also a better place to grab a taxi into town, as rides are faster and cheaper when started from here. City buses serving both this stop and Sathaanii Sai Tai include for Banglamphu, for Banglamphu and Thanon Sukhumvit, and for Thewet and Banglamphu see box, p. The bus terminal itself has lots of facilities, including a food hall, internet access, ATMs and scores of shops.

The left-luggage office is beside the Black Canyon Coffee Shop, near the Information booth on the ticketsales floor 5am 9pm; B20 60 per day. The boldest line on the map is the Chao Phraya River, which divides the city into Bangkok proper on the east bank, and Thonburi, part of Greater Bangkok, on the west.

The historical core of Bangkok proper, site of the original royal palace, is Ratanakosin, cradled in a bend in the river. Three concentric canals radiate eastwards around Ratanakosin: the southern part of the area between the canals is the old-style trading enclave of Chinatown and Indian Pahurat, linked to the old palace by Thanon Charoen Krung aka New Road ; the northern part is characterized by old temples and the Democracy Monument, west of which is the backpackers ghetto of Banglamphu.

Beyond the canals to the north, Dusit is the site of many government buildings and the nineteenth-century palace, which is linked to Ratanakosin by the three stately avenues, Thanon Rajdamnoen Nok, Thanon Rajdamnoen Klang and Thanon Rajdamnoen Nai. New Bangkok begins to the east of the canals and beyond the main rail line and Hualamphong Station, and stretches as far as the eye can see to the east and north.

The main business district and most of the embassies are south of Thanon Rama IV, with the port of Khlong Toey at the southern edge. The diverse area north of Thanon Rama IV includes the sprawling campus of Chulalongkorn University, huge shopping centres around Siam Square and a variety of other businesses. A couple of blocks northeast of Siam Square stands the tallest building in Bangkok, the storey Baiyoke II Tower, whose golden spire makes a good point of reference.

To the east lies the swish residential quarter off Thanon Sukhumvit. BASICS Orientation Bangkok addresses Thai addresses can be confusing, as property is often numbered twice, firstly to show which real-estate lot it stands in, and then to distinguish where it is on that lot.

However, the recent openings of the subway system and the elevated train network called the Bangkok Transit System, or BTS Skytrain, have radically improved movement in downtown areas of the city. Unfortunately for tourists, these systems do not stretch as far as Ratanakosin or Banglamphu, where boats still provide the best means of hopping from one sight to another.

The main form of transport in the city is buses, and once you ve mastered the labyrinthine complexity of the route maps you ll be able to get to any part of the city, albeit slowly. Catching the various kinds of taxi is more expensive, and you ll still get held up by the daytime traffic jams.

Boats are obviously more limited in their range, but they re regular and as cheap as buses, and you ll save a lot of time by using them whenever possible a journey between Banglamphu and the GPO General Post Office , for instance, will take around thirty minutes by water, half what it would usually take on land. Walking might often be quicker than travelling by road, but the heat can be unbearable, pavements are poorly maintained and the engine fumes are stifling. Buses Bangkok is served by over four hundred bus routes, reputedly the world s largest bus network, on which operate three main types of bus service though controversial plans, opposed by the transport unions and poorer commuters, to do away with non-air-con services are under discussion.

On ordinary non-air-con buses, which are either red and white, blue and white, or small and green, fares range from B7 to B8. Air-conditioned buses are either blue, orange or white some are articulated and charge between B12 and B25 according to distance travelled; most stop in the late evening, but a few of the more popular routes run hour services.

As buses can only go as fast as the car in front, which at the moment is averaging 4km per hr, you ll probably be spending a long time on each journey, so you d be well advised to pay the extra for cool air and the air-conditioned buses are usually less crowded, too. It s also possible to travel certain commuter routes on yellow or pink, air-conditioned private microbuses, which offer the certainty of a seat no standing allowed and generally charge a flat fare of B Some of the most useful city-bus routes are described in the box on p.

Boats Bangkok was built as an amphibious city around a network of canals or khlongs and the first streets were constructed only in the second half of the nineteenth century. Many canals remain on the Thonburi side of the river, but most of those on the Bangkok side have been turned into roads.

The Chao Phraya River itself is still a major transport. Real Asia T , W full-day canal and walking tours through Thonburi and leads outings by train to the Unlikely as it sounds, there are several companies offering cycle tours of the city s outer neighbourhoods and beyond; these are an excellent way to gain a different perspective on Thai life and offer a unique chance to see traditional communities close up.

The most popular, longest-running bicycle tours are the ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclist Tours, which start in the Thanon Sukhumvit area and take you across the river to surprisingly rural khlong- and riverside communities; tours operate every day year-round, cover up to 30km depending on the itinerary, and need to be reserved in advance through Real Asia see above; B T , Wwww.

For details of Thonburi canal tours, see p. BASICS City transport route for residents and non-residents alike, forming more of a link than a barrier between the two halves of the city. Tha Sathorn, which gives access to the Skytrain network at Saphan Taksin Station, has been designated Central Pier, with piers to the south of here numbered S1, S2, etc, those to the north N1, N2 and so on the important stops in the centre of the city are outlined in the box on p.

In future, express-boat services may be extended downriver to Samut Prakan. Boats do not necessarily stop at every landing they only pull in if people want to get on or off, and when they do stop, it s not for long so when you want to get off, be ready at the back of the boat in good time for your pier. The only boats to Tickets can be bought on board, and cost B9 13 on no-flag boats according to distance travelled, B14 flat rate on orangeflag boats, B19 28 on yellow-flag boats, B19 29 on blue-flag boats and B12 31 on green-and-yellow flag boats.

Don t discard your ticket until you re off the boat, as the staff at some piers impose a B1 fine on anyone disembarking without one. The Chao Phraya Express Boat Company also runs tourist boats, distinguished by their light-blue flags, between Sathorn departs every 30min 9. On-board guides provide running commentaries, and a one-day ticket for unlimited trips, which also allows you to use other express boats within the same route on the same day, costs B; one-way. Cross-river ferries Smaller than express boats are the slow cross-river ferries reua kham fak , which shuttle back and forth between the same two points.

Found at or beside every express-boat stop and plenty of other piers in between, they are especially useful for exploring Thonburi. Fares are generally B3, payable at the entrance to the pier. Canal boats Longtail boats reua hang yao ply the canals of Thonburi like commuter buses, stopping at designated shelters fares are in line with those of express boats , and are available for individual rental here and on the river see box, p. This is your quickest and most interesting way of getting between the west and east parts of town, if you can stand the stench of the canal.

N12 Thonburi shops. N11 N10 museums. N2 N1 Central Sathorn. Once on the boat, state your destination to the conductor when he collects your fare, which will be between B10 and B Due to the construction of some low bridges, all passengers change onto a different boat at Tha Pratunam just follow the crowd. Both run every few minutes from around 6am to midnight, with fares of B15 40 per trip depending on distance travelled.

You buy tickets from machines that accept only coins, but you can change notes at staffed counters. You d really have to be motoring to justify buying a day pass at B, while the twenty-trip, thirty-trip and forty-trip cards, for B, B and B respectively valid for 30 days , are designed for long-distance commuters.

Plans are afoot to continue the line westwards from Hualamphong along Thanon Charoen Krung, then across to Thonburi, finally completing a loop back to Bang Sue. Pay your fare of between B15 and B39 at a staffed counter or machine, where you ll receive a token to put through an entrance gate the various day passes and stored-value cards available are unlikely to be worthwhile for visitors.

Taxis Bangkok taxis come in three forms and are so plentiful that you rarely have to wait more than a couple of minutes before spotting an empty one of any description. Neither tuk-tuks nor motorbike taxis have meters, so you should agree on a price before setting off; expect to do a fair amount of haggling. For nearly all journeys, the best and most comfortable option is to flag down one of Bangkok s metered, air-conditioned taxi cabs; look out for the TAXI METER sign on the roof, and a red light in the windscreen in front of the passenger seat, which means the cab is available for hire.

Try to have change with you as cabs tend not to carry a lot of money; tipping of up to ten percent is common, though occasionally a cabbie will round down the fare on the meter. If a driver tries to quote a flat fare rather than using the meter, let him go, and avoid the now-rare unmetered cabs denoted by a TAXI sign on the roof.

Getting a metered taxi in the middle of the afternoon when the cars return to base for a change of drivers can sometimes be a problem; if you want to book a metered taxi B20 surcharge , call Siam Taxi Co-operative on T or Taxi Radio on T Somewhat less stable though typically Thai, tuk-tuks have very little to recommend them. These noisy, three-wheeled, open-sided buggies, which can carry three medium-sized passengers comfortably, fully expose you to the worst of Bangkok s pollution and weather.

Locals might use tuk-tuks for short journeys though you ll have to bargain hard to get a fare lower than the taxi-cab flagfall of B35 while for a longer trip from Thanon Convent to Siam Square, for example, drivers will ask for as much as B Be aware, also, that tuk-tuk drivers tend to speak less English than taxi drivers and there have been cases of robberies and attacks on women passengers late at night.

During the day it s quite common for tuk-tuk drivers to try and con their passengers into visiting a jewellery, tailor s or expensive souvenir shop with them, for which they get a hefty commission; the usual tactic involves falsely informing tourists that the Grand Palace, or whatever their destination might be, is closed see p. Motorbike taxis generally congregate at the entrances to long sois pick the riders out by their numbered, coloured vests and charge around B10 for short trips down into the side streets.

If you re short on time and have nerves of steel, it s also possible to charter them for hairy journeys out on the main roads a trip from Thanon Convent to Siam Square will cost around B Crash helmets are compulsory on all main roads in the capital traffic police fine non-wearers on the spot , though they re rarely worn on trips down the sois and the local press has reported complaints from people who ve caught head-lice this way they suggest wearing a headscarf under the helmet.

The city s branches of the nationwide Tourism Authority of Thailand can also be useful. TAT s headquarters daily 8. Note, however, that the many other shops and offices across the capital displaying signs announcing TAT Tourist Information or similar are not official Tourism Authority of Thailand centres and will not be dispensing impartial advice: the Tourism Authority of Thailand never uses the acronym TAT on its office-fronts or in its logo.

South Africa Contact the UK office. For a far more personal guide to Bangkok s most interesting shops, markets, restaurants and back streets, look for the famously idiosyncratic hand-drawn maps Nancy Chandler s Map of Bangkok and Nancy Chandler s Map of Khao San and Old Bangkok.

Both carry a mass of annotated recommendations, are impressively accurate and frequently reissued; they re sold in most tourist areas and copies and interim updates are also available at Wwww. Nearly all pharmacies including the city-wide branches of the British chain, Boots see p. US and Canada Health Although Thailand s climate, wildlife and cuisine present Western travellers with fewer health worries than in many Asian destinations, it s as well to know in advance what the risks might be, and what preventive or curative measures you should take.

Extensive list of travel health centres. CDC Wwwwn. Official US government travel health site. Has a full list of travel health clinics. Inoculations There are no compulsory inoculation requirements for people travelling to Thailand from the West, but you should consult a doctor or other health professional, preferably at least four weeks in advance of your trip, for the latest information on recommended immunizations.

Most doctors strongly advise vaccinations or boosters against polio, tetanus, diphtheria, hepatitis A and, in many cases, typhoid, and sometimes they might also recommend protecting yourself against rabies, hepatitis B and other diseases. Mosquito-borne diseases Only certain regions of Thailand are now considered malarial, and Bangkok is malaria-free, so if you are restricting yourself to the capital you do not have to take malaria prophylactics.

Bangkok does however have its fair share of mosquitoes; though nearly all the city s hotels and guest houses have screened windows, you will probably need to BASICS Health Supermarkets and pharmacies in Bangkok stock it, but if you want the highest-strength repellent, or convenient roll-ons or sprays, it s probably best to do your shopping before you leave home.

DEET is strong stuff, and if you have sensitive skin, a natural alternative is citronella available in the UK as Mosi-guard , made from a blend of eucalyptus oils; the Thai version is made with lemon grass. A further reason to protect yourself is the possibility of contracting dengue fever, a viral disease spread by mosquitoes that s on the increase throughout tropical Asia, particularly during and just after the rainy season. There s no inoculation against it, though it s rarely fatal; symptoms usually develop between five and eight days after being bitten and may include fever, headaches, severe joint and muscle pain breakbone fever is another name for dengue , and possibly a rash.

The only treatment is bed rest, liquids and paracetamol or other non-aspirin-based painkillers, though more serious cases may require hospitalization. Digestive problems By far the most common travellers complaint in Thailand, digestive troubles are often caused by contaminated food and water, or sometimes just by an overdose of unfamiliar foodstuffs.

For advice on food and water hygiene, see p. Stomach trouble usually manifests itself as simple diarrhoea, which should clear up without medical treatment within three to seven days and is best combated by drinking lots of fluids. If this doesn t work, you re in danger of getting dehydrated and should take some kind of rehydration solution, either a commercial sachet of ORS oral rehydration solution , sold in all Thai pharmacies, or a do-it-yourself version, which can be made by adding a handful of sugar and a pinch of salt to every litre of boiled or bottled water soft drinks are not a viable alternative.

If you can eat, avoid fatty foods. Anti-diarrhoeal agents such as Imodium are useful for blocking you up, but only attack the symptoms and may prolong infections; an antibiotic such as ciprofloxacin, however, can often reduce a typical attack of traveller s diarrhoea to one day. If the diarrhoea persists for a week or more, or if you have blood or mucus in your stools, or an accompanying fever, go to a doctor or hospital. Other diseases Rabies is endemic in Thailand, mainly carried by dogs between four and seven percent of stray dogs in Bangkok are reported to be rabid , but also cats and monkeys.

It is transmitted by bites, scratches or even occasionally licks. Rabies is invariably fatal if the patient waits until symptoms begin, though modern vaccines and treatments are very effective and deaths are rare. The important thing is, if you are bitten, licked or scratched by an animal, to vigorously clean the wound with soap and disinfect it, preferably with something containing iodine, and to seek medical advice regarding treatment at the Thai Red Cross Society, for example; see p.

AIDS is widespread in Thailand, primarily because of the sex trade. Condoms meechai are sold in pharmacies, convenience stores, department stores, hairdressers and even street markets. Due to rigorous screening methods, Thailand s medical blood supply is now considered safe.

There have been outbreaks of Avian Influenza bird flu in domestic poultry and wild birds in Thailand which have led to a small number of human fatalities, believed to have arisen through close contact with infected poultry. There has been no evidence of human-to-human transmission in Thailand, and the risk to humans is believed to be very low. However, as a precaution, you should avoid visiting live animal markets and other places where you may come into close contact with birds, and ensure that poultry and egg dishes are thoroughly cooked.

Hospitals, clinics and dentists Hospital rong phayaabahn cleanliness and efficiency vary, but generally hygiene and healthcare standards are good, the ratio of medical staff to patients is considerably higher than in most parts of the West, and the doctors speak English.

In the event of a major health crisis, get someone to contact your embassy see p. Most expats rate the private Bumrungrad. BASICS The media The media To keep you abreast of world affairs, there are several English-language newspapers in Thailand, though a mild form of censorship affects the predominantly state-controlled media, even muting the English-language branches on occasion.

Newspapers and magazines Of the hundreds of Thai-language newspapers and magazines published every week, the sensationalist daily tabloid Thai Rath attracts the widest readership, with circulation of around a million, while the moderately progressive Matichon is the leading quality daily, with an estimated circulation of , Alongside these, two daily Englishlanguage papers the Bangkok Post Wwww. The Nation has recently adopted a split personality, covering mostly business news on its main pages while carrying a lively, poppy tabloid, the Xpress, inside.

The Post s Spectrum supplement, which comes inside the Sunday edition, stands out for its investigative journalism. Both the Post and Nation are sold at most newsstands in the capital. English-language bookstores such as Bookazine and some expensive hotels carry air-freighted, or sometimes locally printed and stapled, copies of foreign national newspapers for at least B50 a copy.

Television There are six government-controlled, terrestrial TV channels in Thailand: channels 3, 5 owned and operated by the army , 7 and 9 Radio Thailand boasts over five hundred radio stations, mostly music-oriented, ranging from Virgin Radio s Eazy Chulalongkorn University Radio Net on FM is one of several stations that include English-language news bulletins.

Times and wavelengths change regularly, so get hold of a recent schedule just before you travel or consult the websites for frequency and programme guides. Festivals Nearly all Thai festivals have a religious aspect. The most theatrical are generally Brahmin Hindu in origin, honouring elemental spirits with ancient rites and ceremonial costumed parades.

In Buddhist celebrations, merit-making plays an important role and events are usually staged at the local temple, but a lighthearted atmosphere prevails, as the wat grounds are swamped with food- and trinket-vendors and makeshift stages are set up to show likay folk theatre, singing stars and beauty contests; there may even be funfair rides as well.

Some of the festivals below are designated as national holidays see p. Even more foodstalls than usual in Chinatown and plenty to feast your eyes on too, including Chinese opera shows and jaunty parades led by traditional Chinese dragons and lions. February Maha Puja on the day of full moon. A day of merit-making marks the occasion when disciples gathered spontaneously to hear the Buddha preach.

Best experienced at Wat Benjamabophit, where the festival culminates with a candlelit procession round the temple. Sanam Luang next to the Grand Palace is the venue for demonstrations and competitions of kite-flying and fighting see p. April Songkhran: Thai New Year. The Thai New Year is welcomed in with massive waterfights and no one, least of all foreign tourists, escapes a good-natured soaking. Trucks roam the streets spraying passers-by with hosepipes and half the population cary huge water pistols for the duration.

Don t wear your favourite outfit as water is sometimes laced with dye. Celebrated throughout the city but famously raucous on Thanon Silom and, especially, on. To mark the beginning of the rice-planting season, ceremonially clad Brahmin leaders parade sacred oxen and the royal plough across Sanam Luang, interpreting omens to forecast the year s rice yield see also p. Temples across the city are the focus of this holiest day of the Buddhist calendar, which commemorates the birth, enlightenment and death of the Buddha.

The most photogenic event is the candlelit evening procession around the wat, particularly at Wat Benjamabophit in Dusit. An annual chance to preview new and unusual Thai films alongside features and documentaries from Southeast Asia and beyond. October 23 Chulalongkorn Day The city marks the anniversary of the death of the widely loved Rama V, King Chulalongkorn , by laying offerings around the famous equestrian statue of the king, at the Thanon U-Thong-Thanon Sri Ayutthaya crossroads in Dusit see p.

October Awk Pansa on the day of full moon. Devotees at temples across the city make offerings to monks and there s general merrymaking to celebrate the Buddha s descent to earth from Tavatimsa heaven and the end of the Khao Pansa retreat. Wishes and prayers wrapped up in banana-leaf baskets full of flowers and lighted candles are released on to the Chao Phraya River and Thonburi canals in this charming festival that both honours the water spirits and celebrates the end of the rainy season.

Many Chinese people become vegetarian for this annual nine-day Taoist detox, so most food vendors and restaurants in Chinatown, and many outlets in other parts of the city, turn veggie too, displaying a yellow pennant to alert their customers see p. Probably Thailand s biggest temple fair, held around Wat Saket and the Golden Mount, with funfairs, folk theatre, music and tons of food. The capital s gay community stages parades, cabarets, fancydress shows and sports contests.

See Wwww. An extraordinary array of sumptuous uniforms makes this annual marshalling of the Royal Guards a sight worth stopping for. In the evening thousands of people gather in Sanam Luang to light candles and sing the king s anthem, after which there s free entertainment into the night from pop stars and folk theatre troupes, capped by a huge fireworks display. Nearby Rajadamnoen Klang is prettily decorated with special lights and portraits of the king. December 31 Western New Year s Eve. The new year is greeted with fireworks along the river and at Sanam Luang, and huge crowds gather for a mass countdown around the Central World Plaza and Siam Square area, which is usually pedestrianized for the night.

Theft and pickpocketing are two of the main problems, but the most common cause for concern is the number of con-artists who dupe tourists into parting with their cash. There are also various Thai laws that tourists need to be aware of, particularly regarding passports, the age of consent and smoking in public. To prevent theft, most travellers prefer to carry their valuables with them at all times, but it s sometimes possible to leave your valuables in a hotel or guest-house locker the safest lockers are those that require your own padlock, as there are occasional reports of valuables being stolen by hotel staff.

Padlock your luggage when leaving it in hotel or guest-house rooms, as well as when consigning it to storage or taking it on public transport. Padlocks also come in handy as extra security on your room. Personal safety Be wary of accepting food and drink from strangers as it may be drugged. This might sound paranoid, but there have been enough drug-muggings for TAT to publish a specific warning about the problem. Drinks are sometimes spiked in bars and clubs, especially by sex-workers who later steal from their victim s room.

Violent crime against tourists is not common, but it does occur, and there have been several serious attacks on women travellers in the last few years. However, bearing in mind that over fourteen million foreigners visit Thailand every year, the statistical likelihood of becoming a victim is extremely small. Obvious precautions for travellers of either sex include locking accessible windows and doors at night with your own padlock in the simpler guest houses , and not travelling alone at night in a taxi or tuk-tuk.

Nor should you risk jumping into an unlicensed taxi at the airport in Bangkok at any time of day: there have been some very violent robberies in these, so take the wellmarked licensed, metered taxis instead, or one of the airport buses. Unfortunately, it is also necessary for female tourists to think twice about spending time alone with a monk, as not all men of the cloth uphold the Buddhist precepts and there have been rapes and murders committed by men wearing the saffron robes of the monkhood.

Though unpalatable and distressing, Thailand s high-profile sex industry is relatively unthreatening for Western women, with its energy focused exclusively on farang men; it s also quite easily avoided, being contained within certain pockets of the capital. As for harassment from men, it s hard to generalize, but most Western women find it less of a problem in Thailand than they do back home.

For advice on safe travelling in Thailand, consult your government s travel advisory. Scams Despite the best efforts of guidebook writers, TAT and the Thai tourist police, countless travellers to Thailand get scammed every year. Nearly all scams are easily avoided if you re on your guard against anyone who makes an unnatural effort to befriend you.

We have outlined the main scams in the relevant sections of this guide, but con-artists are nothing if not creative, so if in doubt walk away at the earliest opportunity. Many Bangkok tuk-tuk drivers earn most of their living through securing commissions from tourist-oriented shops and will do their damnedest to get you to go to a gem shop see p. The most common tactic is for drivers to pretend that the Grand Palace or other major sight you intended to visit is closed for the day they usually invent a plausible reason, such as a festival or royal.

The tourist police s job is to offer advice and tell you what to do next, but they do not file crime reports, which must be done at the nearest police station. The tour will invariably include a visit to a gem shop.

The easiest way to avoid all this is to take a metered taxi; if you re fixed on taking a tuk-tuk, ignore any tuk-tuk that is parked up or loitering and be firm about where you want to go. Self-styled tourist guides, touts and anyone else who might introduce themselves as students or businesspeople and offer to take you somewhere of interest, or invite you to meet their family, are often the first piece of bait in a well-honed chain of con-artists.

If you bite, chances are you ll end up either at a gem shop or in a gambling den, or, at best, at a tour operator or hotel that you had not planned to patronize. This is not to say that you should never accept an invitation from a local person, but be extremely wary of doing so following a street encounter in Bangkok or the resorts.

Tourist guides ID cards are easily faked. For many of these characters the goal is to get you inside a dodgy gem shop. There is a full run-down of advice on how to avoid falling for the notorious low-grade gems scam on p. A less common but potentially more frightening scam involves a similar cast of warm-up artists leading tourists into a gambling game. The scammers invite their victim home on an innocent-sounding pretext, get out a pack of cards, and then set about fleecing the incomer in any number of subtle ways.

Often this can be especially scary as the venue is likely to be far from hotels or recognizable landmarks. You re unlikely to get any sympathy from police, as gambling is illegal in Thailand. Age restrictions and other laws Thai law requires that tourists carry their original passports at all times, though sometimes it s more practical to carry a photocopy and keep the original locked in a safety deposit.

The age of consent is 15, but the law allows anyone under the age of 18, or their parents, to file charges in retrospect even if they consented to sex at the time. It is against the law to have sex with a prostitute who is under It is illegal for unders to It is illegal for anyone to gamble in Thailand though many do. Smoking in public is widely prohibited. The ban covers all air-conditioned public buildings including restaurants but usually excluding bars and clubs and air-conditioned trains, buses and planes and even extends to parks and the street; violators are subject to a B fine.

Dropping cigarette butts, littering and spitting in public places can also earn you a B fine, and jaywalking instead of using a footbridge or road crossing could get you done for B There are fines for overstaying your visa see p. Drugs Drug-smuggling carries a maximum penalty in Thailand of death and dealing drugs will get you anything from four years to life in a Thai prison; penalties depend on the drug and the amount involved.

Travellers caught with even the smallest amount of drugs at airports and international borders are prosecuted for trafficking, and no one charged with trafficking offences gets bail. Heroin, amphetamines, LSD and ecstasy are classed as Category 1 drugs and carry the most severe penalties: even possession of Category 1 drugs for personal use can result in a life sentence. Away from international borders, most foreigners arrested in possession of small amounts of cannabis are released on bail, then fined and deported, but the law is complex and prison sentences are possible.

Despite occasional royal pardons, don t expect special treatment as a farang: you only need to read one of the first-hand accounts by foreign former prisoners reviewed on p. The police actively look for tourists doing drugs, reportedly searching people regularly and randomly on Thanon Khao San, for example. They have the power to order a urine test if they have reasonable grounds for suspicion, and even a positive result for marijuana consumption could lead to a year s imprisonment.

Be wary also of being shopped by a farang or local dealer keen to earn a financial reward for a successful bust, or having substances slipped into your luggage simple enough to perpetrate unless all fastenings are secured with padlocks. If you are arrested, ask for your embassy to be contacted immediately, which is your right under Thai law see p. The British charity Prisoners Abroad Wwww.

This is just not the case: there are some things so universally sacred in Thailand that even a hint of disrespect will cause deep offence. It is both socially unacceptable and a criminal offence to make critical or defamatory remarks about the royal family.

Thailand s monarchy might be a constitutional one, but almost every household displays a picture of King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit in a prominent position, and respectful crowds mass whenever either of them makes a public appearance. The second of their four children, Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn, is the heir to the throne; his younger sister, Princess Royal Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, is often on TV and in the English newspapers as she is involved in many charitable projects.

When addressing or speaking about royalty, Thais use a special language full of deference, called rajasap literally royal language. Thailand s lese-majesty laws are among the most strictly applied in the world, increasingly invoked as the Thai establishment becomes ever more uneasy over the erosion of traditional monarchist sentiments and the rise of critical voices, particularly on the internet though these are generally quickly censored. Accusations of lese-majesty can be levelled by and against anyone, Thai national or farang, and must be investigated by the police.

As a few high-profile cases involving foreigners have demonstrated, they can be raised for seemingly minor infractions, such as defacing a poster or being less than respectful in a work of fiction. Transgressions are met with jail sentences of up to 75 years. Aside from keeping any anti-monarchy sentiments to yourself, you should be prepared to stand when the king s anthem is played at the beginning of every cinema programme, and to stop in your tracks if the neighbourhood or public building you re in follows tradition and plays the national anthem over its public address system at 8am and 6pm.

A less obvious point: as the king s head features on all Thai currency, you should never step on a coin or banknote, which is tantamount to kicking the king in the face. Religion Almost equally insensitive would be to disregard certain religious precepts. Buddhism plays an essential part in the lives of most Thais, and Buddhist monuments should be treated with respect which basically means wearing long trousers or knee-length skirts, covering your arms and removing your shoes whenever you visit one.

All Buddha images are sacred, however small, tacky or ruined, and should never be used as a backdrop for a portrait photo, clambered over, placed in a position of inferiority or treated in any manner that could be construed as disrespectful. In an attempt to prevent foreigners from committing any kind of transgression the government requires a special licence for all Buddha statues exported from the country. Monks come only just beneath the monarchy in the social hierarchy, and they too are addressed and discussed in a special language.

If there s a monk around, he ll always get a seat on the bus, usually right at the back. Theoretically, monks are forbidden to have any close contact with women, which means, as a female, you mustn t sit or stand next to a monk, or even brush against his robes; if it s essential to pass him something, put the object down so that he can then pick it up never hand it over directly. Nuns, however, get treated like ordinary women. The body The Western liberalism embraced by the Thai sex industry is very unrepresentative of the majority Thai attitude to the body.

Clothing or the lack of it is what bothers Thais most about tourist behaviour. As mentioned above, you need to dress modestly when entering temples, but the same also applies to other important buildings and all public places. Stuffy and sweaty as it sounds, you should keep short shorts and vests for the beach. According to ancient Hindu belief, the head is the most sacred part of the body and the feet are the most unclean.

This belief, imported into Thailand, means that it s very rude to touch another person s head or to point your feet either at a human being or at a sacred image when sitting on a temple floor, for example, you should tuck your legs beneath you rather than stretch them out towards the Buddha.

These hierarchies also forbid people from wearing shoes which are even more unclean than feet inside temples and most private homes, and by extension Thais take offence when they see someone sitting on the head, or prow, of a boat. Putting your feet up on a table, a chair or a pillow is also considered very uncouth, and Thais will always take their shoes off if they need to stand on a train or bus seat to get to the luggage rack, for example.

On a more practical note, the left hand is used for washing after going to the toilet, so Thais never use it to put food in their mouth, pass things or shake hands as a farang though, you ll be assumed to have different customs, so left-handers shouldn t worry unduly.

Social conventions Thais very rarely shake hands, instead using the wai to greet and say goodbye and to acknowledge respect, gratitude or apology. A prayer-like gesture made with raised hands, the wai changes according to the relative status of the two people involved: Thais can instantaneously assess which wai to use, but as a farang your safest bet is to go for the stranger s wai, which requires that your hands be raised close to your chest and your fingertips placed just below your chin.

If someone makes a wai at you, you should generally wai back, but it s safer not to initiate. Public displays of physical affection in Thailand are more common between friends of the same sex than between lovers, whether hetero- or homosexual. Holding hands and hugging is as common among male friends as with females, so if you re caressed by a Thai acquaintance of the same sex, don t assume you re being propositioned.

Finally, there are three specifically Thai concepts you re bound to come across, which may help you comprehend a sometimes laissez-faire attitude to delayed buses and other inconveniences. The first, jai yen, translates literally as cool heart and is something everyone tries to maintain most Thais hate raised voices, visible irritation and confrontations of any kind, so losing one s cool can have a much more inflammatory effect than in more combative cultures.

Related to this is the oft-quoted response to a difficulty, mai pen rai never mind, no problem or it can t be helped the verbal equivalent of an open-handed shoulder shrug, which has its basis in the Buddhist notion of karma. And then there s sanuk, the widereaching philosophy of fun, which, crass as it sounds, Thais do their best to inject into any situation, even work.

Hence the crowds of inebriated Thais who congregate at beauty spots on public holidays travelling solo is definitely not sanuk , the inability to do almost anything without high-volume musical accompaniment, and the national waterfight which takes place every April. Thais of all ages are commonly known by the nickname given them soon after birth rather than by their official first name.

Family names were only introduced in by Rama Vl, who invented many of the aristocracy s surnames himself , and are used only in very formal situations, always in conjunction with the first name. It s quite usual for good friends never to know each other s surname.

Prices for a small car start at about B per day; petrol currently costs around B28 a litre. Thais drive on the left, and the speed limit is 60km per hour within built-up areas and 90km per hour outside them. Avis T ; Wwww. Budget T ; Wwww. Charities and volunteer projects Reassured by the plethora of well-stocked shopping plazas, efficient services and abundance of bars and restaurants, it is easy to forget that life is extremely hard for many people in Bangkok.

Countless charities work with Thailand s many poor and disadvantaged communities: listed below are a few that would welcome help in some way from visitors. It now runs more than thirty kindergartens in the slums. Contact the centre for information about volunteering, or visit it to purchase gifts. High-school and further education in Thailand is a luxury that the poorest kids cannot afford so many are sent to live in temples instead.

The SET helps such kids pursue their education and escape from the poverty trap. SET welcomes donations and sponsorship. Contact the hotel for help with transport. Cookery classes Nearly all the five-star hotels will arrange Thai cookery classes for guests if requested.

Thorough, morning classes in a quiet, suburban house in southern downtown. B, including transfers from central hotels. Closed Mon. Held in a grand, century-old building, the courses here range from B for half a day to a five-day private course for professional chefs for B68, Not very nice. The pool area is nice. The room was clean. Staff was very friendly! Stayed 3 nights which is OK. We were only for 1night in quarantine If you have to be in quarantine for 1week I would take a bigger room with balcony Inform your customers right away when the PCR results are ready and not wait until they reach out multiple times.

It was easy and fast to take the pcr test. The answer come after 6 hours. The hotel was okay. Good hotel. Everything went smoothly. We arrived quite late, so we slept and got our results directly in the morning. If you have time, I'd recommend picking up snacks and beverages from duty free at the airport, in case the one meal and drink isn't sufficient.

Everything was as promised. A little wait at the airport about 20 min for the hotel van. Quick test results in about 7 hours. There weren't any problems during the 1-night quarantine procedure. Everything well organized from airport pick up to hospital for my PCR then to hotel it was all smooth. PCR test result came before noon. Big clean room nice city view. Everything was pefect, from the arrival till checkout. All 5 Star Service. Hotel super good and perfect located.

Sure Stay is a good place to choose for your overnight quarantine - they delivered everything as promised. Overall good service, pick up at the airport, transfer to the test facility and hotel was well organized. Friendly stuff and quick check in at the hotel. Could easily order food, which was quickly delivered. I would recommend this hotel to visitors, location is good for sky train and also quiet , would look to stay here again when next in Bangkok. This is a very clean and good hotel.

The room was perfect, staff was helping and all went very smoothly. I stayed in a room with my husband and our daughter. It was a comfortable room, but without balcony. Good thing we only had to be quarantined for a night.

This hotel is not a Direct Payment Partner yet, and we cannot gaurentee the following things. Maximum of 2 Adults, 1 Child, 1 Infant. Score 4. If you were a guest at SureStay Plus by Best Western Sukhumvit 2 , then the hotel, and our viewers would greatly appreciate it if you would leave a detailed review. It was ok Negatives For the price it cost the food was crap Room was ver basic This is a money making scam for those involved,Thai government and hotels.

Avoid this hotel at all costs, you are treated like a convict or piece of dog shit! Would never have booked had known it was so bad. Still have 4 nights in this Prison to go!! Negatives Our room was double booked, so we walked into somebody else living in our designated room. Not very nice Our room was double booked, so we walked into somebody else living in our designated room.

Supermarket also very near,coffee shop Negatives Food delivered in plastic,but that's the policy off the Covid Just so many wast Meals were all ready and purchased from supermarkets. There was no room service available other than that. No drinks available in the minibar. Food was OK but not very tasty. I stayed only 10 hours and don't have much else to say. Negatives No Everything was as promised.

We did a PCR test on the way to the hotel fast check-out Negatives not enough choices in food had to wait a while at the airport I stayed in a room with my husband and our daughter. Hotel Offer Brochure.

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Dj station silom soi 2 torrent For Special Purposes. Countries Singapore. Television There are six government-controlled, terrestrial TV channels in Thailand: channels 3, 5 owned and operated by the army7 and 9 The tourist police s job is to offer advice and tell you what to do next, but they do not file crime reports, which must be done at the nearest police station. Note also, however, that Thais tend to change mobile-phone providers and therefore numbers comparatively frequently, in search of a better deal.


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